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Murugan's festival on the Puṣya full moon of the Tamil month Thai. Devotees carry the kāvaḍi, an arched burden shouldered up the hill at Palani and Batu Caves, many of them after a month of fasting.

When it falls

The day the Moon stands in Pūṣya nakṣatra while the Sun is in Makara — the Tamil month Thai — which puts it on the full moon of late January or early February.

The Phala almanac gives the exact day for your own city; the lunar and solar rules above are what it computes from.

The story

The day is Murugan's. One telling makes it his birth, another the day Pārvatī gave him the spear with which he ended Sūrapadma, and the second is the one the processions act out.

Thai is the month of new beginnings in the Tamil reckoning — Thai piṛandāl vaḻi piṛakkum, when Thai is born a way is born — and Pūṣya is the star of nourishment. The festival sits where the two meet.

What the day is actually known for is the kāvaḍi: an arched wooden or metal frame carried on the shoulders up the hill to the temple, decorated with peacock feathers, sometimes with pots of milk hung from it, sometimes attached to the carrier with hooks and skewers. It is carried in fulfilment of a vow, and the carrier walks in a trance to drumming, usually after a month of fasting and celibacy.

How the day is kept

  • A month of preparation before the day: one vegetarian meal a day, sleeping on the floor, and abstinence.
  • Milk is carried in pots (pāl kāvaḍi) up the hill and poured over the deity; at Palani in Tamil Nadu the climb is nearly seven hundred steps.
  • Body piercing with small spears through the cheeks and tongue, and hooks in the back, is undertaken by some carriers; the silence it enforces is part of the vow.
  • Batu Caves outside Kuala Lumpur draws over a million people and is the largest gathering anywhere; Singapore, Penang, Jaffna, Mauritius and South Africa keep it at scale too.
  • Heads are shaved and the scalp covered in sandalwood paste before the climb.

Watch

Videos from YouTube, each credited to its channel. Tap one to play it here, or open it on YouTube.

The story
What the kāvaḍi is forThe vow behind the burden: a month of fasting, the arch on the shoulders, and the walk uphill to Murugan.Courtesy of NAVA.tv · Watch on YouTube
Rituals and customs
The piercings, and whyThe hooks and skewers some carriers take, the trance the drumming holds them in, and what the silence is for.Courtesy of Thoors World · Watch on YouTube
Processions and parades
The full Batu Caves processionThe whole route in 4K, from the river to the two hundred and seventy-two steps.Courtesy of Santa Tells All · Watch on YouTube
Around the world
A million people outside Kuala LumpurThe largest Thaipūsam anywhere is in Malaysia, not India — the diaspora kept it at a scale the homeland does not match.Courtesy of CNA · Watch on YouTube

More holy days

The Phala almanac shows this day where it falls for your own city — sunrise, tithi and all five limbs, anywhere on earth. See how the almanac works →